The device and laying of the storm water drain in the territory of the private house

The puddles that appear after the rain are a fairly common phenomenon, but few people think that it is quite dangerous for owners of private houses, as it can lead to flooding of the building and the destruction of its pillars.

To avoid unpleasant consequences, experts recommend equipping storm sewers. How to do this will be discussed in this article.

Rainstorm or, as it is often called,rainwater drainage is a system of water pipes, as well as filters and various devices used to effectively remove excess moisture from the local area. This is the main task of stormwater, but the set of functions is not limited to drainage:

• with the help of a stormwater system it is possible to organize watering of the garden and vegetable garden on the garden plot, the positive effect of melt water on the growth and development of plants is known to every summer resident;
• increasing the durability of the building and improving the strength and strength of its supports - this is due to the fact that the rainwater drainage system eliminates excessive flooding of the foundation, and in addition, prevents the development of fungus and mold;
• high-quality filtration of water and its purification from sand and other types of impurities;
• maintaining the integrity of paving slabs and asphalt pavements, which are often destroyed by the impact of beating water jets;
• minimization of the risk of water flowing into the base;
• complete elimination of the formation of puddles and dirt in the area after the rain.

The device of the rain sewerage in a private house and in the country implies the presence in its structure of some constituent elements.

In previous years, it was believed that it must necessarily be large, but modern industry offers wells of various sizes, the choice of which is determined by the dimensions of the roof, the size of the site and the average rainfall in a particular region. As a rule, wells are made of concrete rings, and the lower ring must be equipped with a bottom - this is what distinguishes simple wells from rainwater.

Plastic wells can also be used to create an efficient rainwater drainage system. They are buried to the required depth, set on a concrete pad and chained with strong chains to avoid floating.

Hatches can be made of various materials - rubber, plastic or metal, the choice here depends only on the personal preferences of the homeowner. Regardless of what composition is used, the well must be driven in so that the upper edge of its cover is 15-20 cm below the ground surface.

However, many acquire a ready-made cover with a hatch. In this case, the soil is covered with a thinner layer - only 4-5 cm, however, the lawn will differ in density from the rest of the plots, drawing attention to what is located under it. Most often hatches are issued in black color. However, the sale can also find red and yellow options.

These are small-sized tanks, which are fixed in places of the greatest accumulation of precipitation, for example, under the drainpipes and in the lowest parts of the yard. They are made of concrete or plastic, and the first is often used for the arrangement of deep type storm sewers. In this case, they are mounted on each other, achieving the required height. However, most recently, the above-built plastic inlets became available.

These are devices that are used to accumulate deposited sand and other heavy inclusions. Most often they are made of plastic, they are low cost, but at the same time exhibit exceptionally high performance characteristics. Usually sand traps are mounted at a certain distance from each other.

Lattices establish in order that water left as much as possible full. The following gratings are distinguished:

• cast iron - reliable and durable products, but the paint on them lasts no more than 3 years, significantly reducing the overall aesthetics of the design;
• steel - a cheap option, but the lowest quality - steel is prone to corrosion, therefore, even after 1-2 years, these grids start to rust;
• aluminum - it uses not pure metal, but its alloys, such options are most preferable, since they differ in strength and attractive design, but their cost is quite high.

Not a single shower is without pipes, as a rule, they use products made of red polyethylene. They have smooth walls, which significantly improves their throughput. However, you can stay on the cast-iron or asbestos variants, they can also work smoothly for a long time, providing an effective drain.

These are small-sized wells made of plastic or concrete; they are installed in cases when the pipeline has a rather large length or numerous branchings. They are used to clean the pipes in case of blockages.

There are several main types of storm sewers installed in private homes.

This is a fairly simple system that can be equipped even on your own. It consists of a network of surface gutters into which water flows through the drain pipes, and from there it enters special storage tanks or general sewers.

Gutters are made of metal, plastic or concrete, they are covered with lattices on top, which protect them from falling into large debris, and in addition, they perform a decorative function.

This type of stormwater is also referred to as a pinhole, in which case all water intakes are located underground. The mechanism of their action is simple: water, flowing down pipes from rooftops, gets into special storm water inlets, and already moves along them into underground canals, from where it goes outside the site.

This system involves the simultaneous use of open and closed elements, this method is used when it is necessary to build an effective drain system in a limited budget.

Quite often, in cottages and private houses, there are several drainage options at once: sewage, drainage and rain. As a rule, they are located close to each other around the site and run in parallel.

Quite often, the owners of the site have a natural desire to save money and combine drainage with elements of other types of drainage, for example, to use a ready-made well.However, this should not be done, because during heavy rain the liquid enters the well rather quickly, the average flow rate is 10 cubic meters per hour.

In this case, the well may overflow, and if it is combined with the sewer, the water will begin to flow into the sewer pipes. In this case, of course, it will not be able to rise above the ground level, however, you will not be able to lower anything either, since everything will stand in the plumbing. In addition, after lowering the water level inside the system, large and small debris will remain, which can significantly impair the effective operation of the entire drain system, and it will have to be cleaned regularly, you see, not the most pleasant thing.

The situation is much worse if the discharges go to the drain well. If during a prolonged shower the moisture enters under the large pressure into the drainage system, then as the pipes are filled, it simply falls out under the foundation and begins to wash it. There is no need to talk about the consequences, there are other troubles, which include the silting of the drainage pipeline.

The conclusion can be made very simple: the stormwater in the house should have its own well, and quite roomy. However, if there is an exit to a pond, a lake or a river not far from the site, then the well arrangement can be neglected.

When it comes to the drainage system, it is very important to first draw up a drawing, plans and design schemes, otherwise it will be just “money to the wind”. If the system does not work effectively, then you should not undertake to arrange it, and if the stormwater is too powerful, then it will “eat” too much money.

In order to make calculations and an effective project as accurately as possible, the following data are necessary:

• the average number of precipitation in the area (they can be found in SNiP 2.04.03-85);
• precipitation frequency;
• snow cover size;
• runoff area;
• roof area;
• physical and mechanical parameters of the soil;
• location of underground utilities;
• calculated wastewater volumes.

Further calculations are made according to the formula Q = q20 * F * K, Where

Q - this is the amount of moisture that the system should withdraw;

q20 - precipitation intensity (it is different for each locality);

F - surface area from which it is planned to remove water;

TO - the correction factor, which depends on the site covering material, is:

• for rubble - 0.4;
• for concreted areas 0 0.85;
• for asphalt - 0.95;
• for roofs - 1.0.

Trays and pipes are dug in at a depth at which they are standardly held in each locality, their exact value can be obtained from construction companies or from neighbors who have already installed stormwater at their site. As a rule, in the middle zone of Russia, the depth of laying is 0.3 meters in case the diameter of the pipeline does not exceed 50 cm. Trays and pipes of a larger size are buried to a depth of 70 cm.

Often, the high cost of excavation leads to the fact that customers are asked not to go deep into the ground very much - and in general this is fully justified, since there is no point in closing the pipes for too long a distance. There is no reason to install collectors and inspection tanks below the level of seasonal freezing as required by the existing GOSTs. They can be placed above, but pre-warmed with insulating material, for example, geotextile.

But the requirements governing the minimum rainfall slope should not be neglected. GOST establishes the following standards:

• for pipes with a diameter of 15 cm, the inclination angle should be 0.008 mm / m;
• for pipes with a cross section of 20 cm - 0.007 mm / m.

The angle of inclination may vary depending on the characteristics of the site. So, in the place where the pipe is connected to the storm water inlet, it is necessary to increase the flow velocity of self-flowing water, therefore, a maximum permissible angle of 0.02 mm / m should be formed.

The drainage drainage system is equipped according to its technology, its installation is in many respects similar to the principle of carrying out ordinary sewage pipelines, however, if there are no drains in the house, then installation should begin with them.

In the ceilings of the roof, it is necessary to make special openings that will be used under the rainwater inlets. After all devices are installed and secured to the bitumen mastic, the joints and abutments should be treated with sealant.Next, install sewers and risers, which are fixed to the facade of a private house with clamps.

In accordance with the planned plans, which are drawn up taking into account all existing angles of inclination of the terrain and the depth of the canals adopted in each specific region, it is necessary to dig a trench. Consider the sequence of actions.

• The bottom of the excavated trench should be thoroughly tamped down, all stones that were encountered during the excavation should be removed, and the pits formed after them should be covered with soil.
• The bottom of the trench is covered with sand, as a rule, the thickness of the sand pad is approximately 20 cm.
• A trench is being dug to install a collector well. For the collector itself, you can purchase a ready-made plastic container, but you can build it with your own hands - for this you need to install a formwork and fill it with a solution of concrete.
• In the ditches, rammed and reinforced with sand cushions, pipes are fixed, which are connected to each other with fittings.
• In the drainage branches with a total length of more than 10 meters, it is necessary to include manholes, and sand traps are installed at the junction of receivers and pipelines. All these devices must be connected to a common chain, and the joints must be sealed.
• Before the final backfilling of the trench, it is necessary to test the strength of the system; to do this, water is poured into the inlet, if the pipes leak, it is necessary to identify and eliminate the leak.
• If there are no weak points in the pipeline, it is necessary to carefully fill the trench with soil, and equip all the gutters and chutes with cast-iron and plastic grids.

Installation of an open system, in general, does not pose any problems, since the receiving trays can be installed easier and faster. They are sold in the form of independent elements, which are quite simply assembled into a single chain with the help of a thin nylon cord, which forms the required drain angle.

Timely arrangement of storm sewage will significantly extend the life of building structures, eliminate the occurrence of dirt and slush and prevent rotting of plant roots.

The simplest stormwater can be easily equipped by the site owner without using third-party specialists, but even when turning to professionals, it does not hurt to become familiar with the features of the sewage system and the specifics of its device, since as it is used, the owner will have to periodically repair and clean the system.

For more information on how to install a storm sewer, see the following video.